To prime, or not to prime...that is the question
Personally
I prime EVERYTHING no matter how small. I learned my lessons the hard
way several times when paint either reacted badly with my plastic or
pulled away from the edges and details because it had nothing to grab on
to. I also was the victim of trying to paint yellow over black plastic
(many years ago). Also when it comes to part preperation, sanding leaves
scratches that may show through the paint, however primer is just thick
enough to hide these supposing you didn't use anything coarser than 400
grit to start (there will be an article upcoming on part preperation
next month).
Which primer should I use?
My personal stash consists of two basic types of primer:
1. General Purpose
2. Finishing
General
purpose is exactly as it sounds. This is the primer I use for pretty
much every part except the body or any other part I need to be
exceptionally smooth. My primer of choice here is Dupli-Color light gray
primer/sealer which can be found at any auto parts store or Wal-Mart
for $2-3 in a 12oz can. This is also a great "blocking' primer base if
you intend to use anything harsher than lacquers and enamels formulated
specificly for plastic, as harsher auto touchup paints and nail
polish will not eat through it. If you cannot find Dupli-Color,
Plastikote T-235 sandable primer works just as well. These products (as
any paint) should be used outdoors and with a respirator.
Finishing
primer has an extremly smooth grain and can be sanded glass smooth as a
basecoat for body work on model cars or natural metal finish aircraft.
My preferance is Tamiya fine primer. This stuff is on the pricey side at
$7 for a 4oz can but well worth it. Tamiya Primer is available in white
or gray shades, however I use the white on most occasions as a base for
bright reds, yellows, greens, and blues for model cars. Gray is used as
a base under black or metallic colors only. I will often use this as a
base for metallic aluminum finishes on auto engines or as a base for the
gloss black coat to be used under Alclad metallic lacquers.
Metal PrimersPhotoetch
parts and cast white metal or die cast car bodies require a slightly
different primer. Metal can have problems with paint adhesion as well as
metal can oxidize very quickly when exposed to moisture so a dedicated
metal primer to act as a barrier is a must if your surface is one of
these. There are several brands like Tamiya, Mr Hobby, Rustoleum
experiment and find the brand that works right for you. Personally I
like the Tamiya brand since it applies clear so I don't have to worry
about covering any odd colored primers.
Colors of PrimerMost commercially available primers are gray, white, black, or red oxide, however they may also come in green, yellow, or other shades. Light gray and white are the best choices for most projects and colors. Red oxide is nice to have on hand in small amounts for 1960's era Ford undersides or as a base for some WWII era German armor. I rarely if ever have used a black primer for anything as it is far too dark to effectively paint anything over it except black and silver.
A note on other types of primers
Colors of PrimerMost commercially available primers are gray, white, black, or red oxide, however they may also come in green, yellow, or other shades. Light gray and white are the best choices for most projects and colors. Red oxide is nice to have on hand in small amounts for 1960's era Ford undersides or as a base for some WWII era German armor. I rarely if ever have used a black primer for anything as it is far too dark to effectively paint anything over it except black and silver.
A note on other types of primers
No
matter what anyone tells you, you do not need anything higher grade than
standard Pep-Boys grade primer. Many model car builders, especially
those in the custom or lowrider sects will tell you to use DuPont
Variprime sealer or other types of auto body shop sealers. These are
industrial grade for 1:1 scale auto's used in a large paint booth with
adequate protection. I do not recomend using these products as a
modeling tool, If you choose to, do so at your own risk!
Keep in mind the products listed here are my own personal preferences. Feel free to experiment and find what works well for you.
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